Evaluate condition honestly
Ask for sharp, current photographs of the dial, case sides, lugs, clasp, bracelet stretch or wear, case back and any movement view offered. Look for dents, deep scratches, uneven polishing, corrosion, moisture, replaced components, mismatched parts and signs of opening. Request disclosure of all known repairs and modifications.
A polished watch is not automatically bad, and an unpolished watch is not automatically better. The question is whether case geometry remains sound and whether the condition matches the price and your preference. Heavy wear can be appropriate to age; excessive cosmetic work can erase crisp edges or design details.
Service history and hidden costs
Request dated records that identify the service provider and work performed. A receipt for a battery or pressure test is not the same as a full mechanical overhaul. If records are missing, price the watch on the assumption that an inspection or service may be needed, and obtain an estimate from a specialist before finalizing if possible.
Check bracelet links, clasp operation, crown threads, chronograph reset, date change, power reserve and winding feel as appropriate. Do not conduct water-resistance tests yourself. A used watch may need a strap, bracelet adjustment, gasket replacement or parts that are costly or unavailable.
Seller, documentation and safe payment
Verify the seller's identity and reputation through independent channels. Get a written invoice that describes the exact watch and condition, plus return rights and any warranty. Confirm insured shipping terms, who bears risk in transit and how the watch can be inspected on arrival.
For a high-value purchase, use a specialist dealer, escrow or an inspection process with clear conditions. Avoid irreversible payment methods to unknown sellers. A market price comparison is useful only when references, condition, completeness and service status are comparable.
Originality is a reference-specific question
Watches may have service dials, hands, bezels, bracelets or movement parts installed during legitimate repairs. Collectors may prefer original components, while some buyers prefer replacement parts for readability or durability. The key is transparent disclosure and a price that reflects the configuration.
Check whether the reference and serial era align with the visible components, but avoid treating a single online serial chart as authoritative. Have an expert inspect anything with unusual parts, undocumented restoration or a price that seems too attractive.